New head chef from Greece takes helm at Big Island’s Meridia restaurant along Kohala Coast

After 17 years in what he described as a “dog-eat-dog” culinary world of New York City, Sotirios Kontos was looking for a change.

“In New York City, you are alone mostly,” Kontos said. “Your assistant wants your position; there’s not a lot of love.”

When the Chef de Cuisine position opened up earlier this year at Meridia, the Westin Hāpuna Beach Resort’s signature Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Kontos thought it was too good to be true.

The Hāpuna team posted the position in January with executive search firms, as well as the company’s careers site.

Knowing he wanted to be somewhere warm and by the ocean, Kontos immediately applied for the opening. He thought Meridia would be a perfect fit, considering he was born in Athens, Greece, lived in Italy, and specialized in food influenced by Greek, Italian mand Turkish culinary traditions.

The Hāpuna team cast a wide international net, attracting 15 candidates. Kontos was one of three who made it to final interviews and a tasting.

Todd Oldham, resort director of food and beverage for Mauna Kea and Hāpuna resorts, said Kontos stood out because the hotel was looking for someone who not only had experience with Mediterranean cuisine, but also a hotel background.

While he was currently working as a private chef in New Jersey, Kontos previously worked at the 5-star Marbella resort in Corfu, Greece, where he gained experience across nearly every station, including the bakery and pastry departments.

Oldham said Kontos’ level of experience, knowledge and skill with Mediterranean-based cooking is rarely seen in Hawai‘i.

“He’s extremely passionate about cooking, and it quickly became apparent in the interviews that he loves to teach and mentor up-and-coming cooks and chefs,” Oldham said.

Kontos got the job, and started at Meridia on May 10.

The 41-year-old was born in Athens, Greece, grew up in Italy and started culinary school when he was just 15. Before moving to the United States, Kontos worked at Nammos, a famous restaurant in Greece.

“It’s very high end,” Kontos said. “Whoever was working there was known in the culinary world.”

His background also includes roles at TriBeCa Grill in New York and Trump National Golf Club.

Kontos’ love of food is rooted in family. While growing up in Greece, he recalled going to his great-grandmother’s farmhouse during summer break with his cousins, where she would take care of them.

The house was huge, with animals and a garden.

“My great-grandmother cooked everything from scratch, even tomato paste and pasta,” he said. “Food was super fresh, and prepping was early in the morning.”

The first time Kontos made a dish for his family was when he was 12 years old. His mother got called into work last minute, so he picked up making the eggplant lasagna.

“My mom started cooking a dish called moussaka, that has potato, eggplant, ground beef or lamb,” Kontos said.  “She told me to leave everything as it was because my grandma was coming to finish it.”

After watching her make this popular dish several times, Kontos thought he could finish it.

“It was a big challenge. because it’s not a simple dish,” Kontos said. “It requires a lot of work and a lot of time, and it leaves a big mess in the kitchen.

From roasting the eggplant to boiling, slicing then deep frying the potatoes to creating a vegetable sauce, Kontos created the dish and by the time his grandma and other guests came, they all believed his mother made it.

“No one realized I did it,” Kontos said.

Oldham said Kontos thinks and creates on a different level, and “we fell in love with him.”

At Meridia, Kontos said 80% of the ingredients come from the hotel’s garden and farms around the island. The resort has bees where the honey is used to make desserts and vinegrettes.

Oldham said the Meridia doesn’t have a gigantic menu, but it’s approachable. A customer favorite, he said, is paella, a Spanish seafood dish with bomba rice, saffron, tomato, chicken and clams.

The prices on the menu vary with tapas starting at $15. Seafood dishes range from $55 to $57 and meat dishes, such as beef, lamb and chicken, range. from $57 to $65.

The staff did a tasting last week where Kontos presented a few new dishes of the menu. Oldham said the chef is changing out two to three dishes at a time, while keeping customer favorites.

Kontos said his team plans to keep 50% of the current menu. They will also be creating a new dessert menu.

Many guests like a seafood pasta. With that in mind, the culinary team will be launching a squid and pasta dish.

“Working alongside Chef Soto (Kontos) has been inspiring for our entire team,” said Thor Carles, restaurant manager at Meridia. “His fresh vision and refined approach to Kohala’s coastal cuisine are elevating Meridia’s menu in bold, beautiful ways.”

Kontos plans to explore new recipes with the local fruits and vegetables.

“The breadfruit is so unique,” Kontos said. “In our menu, we have fried ulu in an octopus dish with pasta-made ulu. It’s amazing.”

Kontos loves the lilikoi, saying it has depth with its tangy, not super sour, flavor.

“The first time I saw it, I took a spoon of it and got blown away,” he said.

Outside of the food, Kontos has found a new culinary family at Meridia that inspires and supports him.

“They give me a good mood every day,” Kontos said. “Here, everything feels the vibration of the island. Weather is great. People are great. And, I feel super blessed.”