Overlapping Swells & Jumbled, Blown Out Surf Today
Alerts
A Small Craft Advisory is posted for all Big Island waters through 6:00 p.m. Wednesday for north winds up to 25 knots with higher gusts. Rough seas of 9 to 14 feet are also forecasted late tonight through Wednesday afternoon. Inexperienced mariners should avoid navigating in these conditions.
A High Surf Advisory is posted for north facing shores from 6:00 p.m. this evening through 6:00 a.m. Thursday for a north swell building tonight and peaking Wednesday before gradually diminishing. Expect strong breaking waves, shore break and strong longshore and rip currents making swimming difficult and dangerous.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Big Island projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
Big Island Surf Forecast, Tuesday, January 6, 2015
Hilo side: Surf heights are expected from head high to slightly overhead at the best breaks open to the north. East swell brings knee to waist high waves for open exposures along the coast.
Kona side: Surf heights not expected over waist high.
South: ESE trade swell brings shoulder to head high waves. Otherwise, southerly spots are below waist high.
Surf energy is coming from a bunch of different directions so some spots may be a bit haphazard. New west-northwest is expected to fill in late Tuesday and hold through Thursday. North spots will have breezy onshore winds so conditions should be pretty blown out.
A larger north-northwest (330-360) swell is expected to fill in and peak Wednesday up to double overhead at the best exposures.
Pending development of storms, we may get another west-northwest over the weekend with another shot of energy expected early next week as well.
Nothing of note out of the SPAC to get excited about.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.