Forecast for Big Island Windward and Southeast

HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH FACING SHORES TODAY

Forecast for Big Island Leeward

Swell Summary

A large north swell is building in today. The peak of this swell will increase surf heights to High Surf Warning (HSW) levels along the north-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Maui. Thus, a HSW is in effect through 0600 HST Friday for all north-facing shores except for Big Island. This HSW may need to be extended in time with the addition of Big Island. This north swell is coming in during a early morning high spring tide both to day and Friday. This increases the probability of significant overwash issues and large wave run up along many north-facing shores through Friday morning. There is a good chance that 8 feet of wave run-up will cause the lower roadways closest to the shore to be overcome by nearshore wash. Areas exposed to north swells on other shorelines will also see a significant rise in surf as the north swell moves in, especially the west-facing shores of more western islands. A High Surf Advisory (HSA) remains in effect for the western shores of Kauai, Oahu and Molokai, along with the north-facing shores of Big island, through 0600 HST Friday.

Storm force winds around the backside of the cut-off low northeast of the islands early Friday will send a second large, medium period north northeast swell into the windward waters Friday night and early Saturday. This swell will keep at least HSA level surf in place along north-facing shores through Saturday and result in a greater impact along Maui and Big Island's north and east-facing shores whereas Big Island's north shore may need to be upgraded to a HSW during this time period.

Surf along east-facing shores will become more choppy and rough as these strong northeasterlies impact the state into Friday, but should stay below HSA levels given the more northerly direction of the winds.

South-facing shores will experience minimal energy for the foreseeable future.

NORTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Ankle high NNE short period wind swell for the morning. The swell shifts more N and builds for the afternoon with sets up to 1-3′ overhead high.

Conditions: Sideshore texture/chop with NW winds 10-15mph in the morning shifting NNW for the afternoon.

NORTH WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal surf (ankle or less) for the morning with a waist to stomach high NNE short period wind swell filling in during the afternoon.

Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with ENE winds 10-15mph. Choppy/disorganized conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting NNE 15-20mph.

WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Glassy in the morning with ESE winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the SSW.

SOUTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Small scale (ankle to knee high) surf.

Conditions: Semi clean/textured in the morning with N winds 15-20mph. This becomes Sideshore texture/chop for the afternoon.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com