Surf Biggest Early, Reinforcement For Weekend
A Marine Weather Statement has been issued by the National Weather Service for a very large west-northwest swell. The Weather Service in Honolulu says the very large swell will remain elevated into Thursday. They are warning of strong harbor surges and large breaking waves at harbor entrances exposed to the swell. One location that could expect such conditions is Honokohau harbor.
A High Surf Warning has been issued for the west side of the Big Island. The warning is posted through Friday at 6:00 p.m. Wave heights of 15 to 20 foot faces are expected. Expect ocean water occasionally sweeping across portions of beaches, very strong breaking waves and strong longshore and rip currents. Breaking waves may occasionally impact harbors making navigating the harbor channel difficult. Large breaking surf, significant shore break and dangerous currents will make entering the water very hazardous. Boaters should be aware of an increased number of surfers in the water.
A Small Craft Advisory has been issued for all island waters through 6:00 p.m. Friday for southwest winds from 10 to 20 knots and rough seas of 7 to 16 feet.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Big Island projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
Hilo side: Surf heights are expected shoulder high to overhead. The best breaks open to the swell could see occasional larger waves on the sets. Breaks open to the trade swell could see wave heights up to chest high as well.
Kona side: Surf heights are forecasted to be head high to overhead with possibly double overhead wave heights on the sets at select reefs that can handle the size.
South: Southerly spots open to the west-northwest swell could get waves wrapping up to overhead in height, maybe more on the sets. Breaks open to the trade swell could see knee to waist high waves.
Our current swell peaked overnight but will still hold some good height today and slowly fade. Surf well above warning levels is expected. The swell is partially blocked by other islands but the Kona side should still see significant swell up to possibly double overhead at the best breaks on the sets. Swell will fade late Thursday through Friday.
A reinforcement is expected to move in Friday and begin to fade out on Sunday. Pending development we could see another solid west-northwest swell setting up for Wednesday and Thursday of next week.
Small south-southwest brings knee to possibly thigh high waves at the best breaks.
Keep in mind, surf heights are measured on the face of the wave from trough to crest. Heights vary from beach to beach, and at the same beach, from break to break.