Photo Credit: James Grenz

Forecast for South Big Island and Big Island North and East

HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR EAST FACING SHORES

Forecast for Big Island Leeward

Swell Summary

A High Surf Advisory (HSA) is in effect for the east-facing shores of Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Maui and the Big Island to account for the continued greater than 8 foot surf that will impact most eastern exposures through the day. East-facing surf heights will remain elevated due to a combination of trade wind wave and eastern swell along with a small north swell wrap around northeastern shorelines. Surf heights along north and east-facing shorelines will remain uncertain this week due to a surface trough of low pressure laying across the islands. The location of this trough will disrupt the general large scale fresh to strong trade flow generated by the large scale pressure gradient from high pressure northeast of the chain.

Low, moderate period overlapping predominant north swells will cause surf heights along north and west-facing shores to remain well below winter averages through the week. Strong north winds setting up behind a passing late week eastern Pacific cold front will follow a great circle path directed toward the state. This will generate a long fetch region that may allow large, long period north northeast swells to propagate into the islands this weekend. These swells could produce XL surf along north and east-facing shores by the end of the week.

Very small, lower period south southwest swells will continue to create small surf along south-facing shores.

NORTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Waist to chest high ENE short period wind swell in the morning builds in the afternoon with occasional sets up to head high.

Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with SSE winds 10-15mph. Choppy/sideshore current conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting SE 15-20mph.

NORTH WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Clean in the morning with SSE winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting NW 5-10mph.

WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Semi glassy/semi bumpy with S winds less than 5mph in the morning shifting W 5-10mph in the afternoon.

SOUTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Waist to chest high ENE wind swell.

Conditions: Fairly clean in the morning with W winds 5-10mph. Semi glassy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting SW less than 5mph.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com