Forecast for Big Island Leeward

HIGH SURF WARNING FOR WEST FACING SHORES

Swell Summary

A very large fetch area of Northwest Pacific gale to severe gale force winds blowing parallel to the island's northwest great circle paths is pushing a significant size west northwest swell toward the state. Long period forerunners of this swell are reaching the northwest buoys this morning. This times the swell to arrive in Kauai during the early afternoon hours, Oahu and Maui during the mid to late afternoon. This swell will lift surf to High Surf Warning thresholds along north and west facing shores of those islands within the HSA from as early as tonight through Saturday afternoon. The anticipated swell, both from data within the fetch generation area and early signs of high period energy reaching the buoys this morning, maintains an ongoing forecast that reflects higher- than- model predicted values for both swell and resultant surf. There is a moderate probability that overwash will impact typically vulnerable low-lying coastal roadways. The best chance of overwash will occur around peak high tide times around midnight both tonight and Friday night. The only other mentionable surf will be along east facing shorelines as strengthened trades will bump up the small period, wind wave chop.

NORTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Knee to waist high E short period wind swell in the morning builds in the afternoon with occasional sets up to chest high.

Conditions: Choppy/sideshore current with SE winds 15-20mph in the morning shifting ESE for the afternoon.

NORTH WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with ENE winds less than 5mph. Semi choppy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting WSW 5-10mph.

WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with NNW winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.

SOUTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Knee to waist high ESE short period wind swell in the morning builds to waist to chest high for the afternoon.

Conditions: Bumpy/semi bumpy with E winds 5-10mph in the morning shifting ENE for the afternoon.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com