Forecast for Big Island Leeward

Swell Summary

The north swell will be filling in around the islands through the day. The windward water nearshore PacIOOS buoys are moving up within the medium to long period bands thus confidence is growing that many north facing shores will experience double overhead surf in many sets today as this 6 to 7 foot medium period due north-in-direction swell peaks today. The northeast offshore buoy 51000 has been solid with 10 foot medium period swell. While quite the boost, north facing shore surf is expected to peak under High Surf Advisory (HSA) levels through the day. A similar, medium period northwest swell is expected to arrive late Thursday through Friday with a slightly larger reinforcing northwest swell arriving on its heels Friday. These swells will fill in through Saturday with another moderate size northwest swell arriving early next week. These series of northwest swells may push north and west facing shore surf back up to near HSA levels this weekend and early next week. The combination of this recent north swell wrap and shorter period trade wind wave swell will maintain choppy, slightly elevated east facing shore surf through tomorrow afternoon.

NORTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Knee to waist high ENE short period wind swell for the morning going more E and building into the waist to chest range in the afternoon.

Conditions: Sideshore texture/chop with SSE winds 15-20mph in the morning shifting SE for the afternoon.

NORTH WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Glassy in the early morning with NNW winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.

WEST

am        pm  

Surf: Minimal (ankle high or less) surf.

Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with SE winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting WNW 5-10mph. Clean conditions are expected for the late day with NE winds less than 5mph.

SOUTH EAST

am        pm  

Surf: Knee to waist high ESE short period wind swell.

Conditions: Clean in the morning with NNW winds 5-10mph. Sideshore texture/chop conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the NE.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com