September 30, 2018 Surf Forecast
Outlook through Sunday October 07: A long-period northwest swell arriving Monday night is expected to cause surf to approach the High Surf Advisory criteria along north facing shores Tuesday. This swell will gradually diminish Wednesday. A south-southwest swell filling in Tuesday is expected to produce moderate surf along south facing shores Wednesday. A small long- period east swell generated by distant Hurricane Rosa may produce a slight bump in surf heights along east facing shores starting Tuesday. Later in the week, swells from Walaka, which is forecast to intensify to a hurricane by tonight, and distant Typhoon Trami may produce significant southwest and west swells that may affect south and west facing shores starting Thursday.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
Surf: Chest to shoulder high mix of NNW medium period swell and ESE wind swell
Conditions: Semi choppy with ESE winds 5-10mph.
Surf: Knee high SW ground swell in the morning with occasional thigh high sets. This drops a bit in the afternoon.
Conditions: Glassy in the morning with E winds less than 5mph. Choppy/disorganized conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting WSW 15-20mph.
Surf: Knee high SW ground swell for the morning with occasional thigh sets. This builds a bit during the afternoon.
Conditions: Glassy in the morning with NNE winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.
Surf: Waist to stomach high ESE wind swell with occasional chest high sets.
Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with NNE winds 5-10mph. Sideshore texture/chop conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting NE 10-15mph.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**