September 29, 2018 Surf Forecast
Swell Summary
Outlook through Saturday October 06: Choppy surf along east facing shores will gradually increase this weekend as the trade winds strengthen. Small long-period south- southwest swells are expected to hold into early next week. A larger reinforcing south-southwest swell is expected to fill in Tuesday and peak on Wednesday at heights slightly above the summer average. The current short period north-northwest swell is expected to gradually decrease Sunday into Monday. A slightly larger and longer period northwest swell is expected to arrive Monday night or Tuesday and linger through mid week. A small but longer period east swell generated by east Pacific tropical cyclone Rosa may give a boost to surf along east facing shores during the early to middle part of next week. Surf is expected to remain below advisory levels along all shores through the middle of next week.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
North East
am pm
Surf: Chest to head high mix of NNW medium period swell and ESE medium period swell
Conditions: Choppy/sideshore current with SE winds 15-20mph in the morning decreasing to 10-15mph in the afternoon.
North West
am pm
Surf: Knee high SW long period swell in the morning with occasional thigh high sets. This drops a bit in the afternoon.
Conditions: Glassy in the early morning with E winds less than 5mph. Semi choppy conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting WSW 5-10mph.
West
am pm
Surf: Knee to waist high SSW long period swell.
Conditions: Clean in the early morning with NE winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting SSW 5-10mph.
South East
am pm
Surf: Waist to chest high ESE wind swell with occasional shoulder high sets.
Conditions: Bumpy/semi bumpy with E winds 5-10mph in the morning shifting ENE for the afternoon.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com