September 26, 2018 Surf Forecast
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Outlook through Wednesday October 03: Rough surf along east facing shores will gradually increase from Friday through this weekend as the trade winds strengthen. A north-northwest swell arriving Thursday night will produce moderate surf along north and west facing shores from Friday through this weekend. A small to moderate southwest swell arriving Thursday will produce a noticeable boost in surf heights along south facing shores from Friday into early next week. A slightly larger reinforcing south-southwest swell is expected to fill in next Tuesday.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
Surf: Waist to stomach high ESE wind swell with occasional chest high sets.
Conditions: Sideshore texture/chop with SE winds 10-15mph in the morning increasing to 20-25mph in the afternoon.
Surf: Ankle to knee high SW long period swell in the morning builds in the afternoon with occasional sets up to waist high.
Conditions: Clean in the early morning with SSE winds less than 5mph. Semi choppy conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting WSW 10-15mph.
Surf: Knee high medium period swell with occasional thigh sets. The swell will be coming from the S in the morning and shift to the SW during the day.
Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with SSE winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.
Surf: Waist to chest high ESE medium period swell for the morning going more S during the day.
Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with SW winds 5-10mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting S 10-15mph.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com