Outlook through Tuesday September 11: A large east swell generated by Hurricane Norman will begin to spread across the area tonight. This will cause surf to increase along east facing shores, with surf likely approaching the High Surf Warning criteria on Thursday. The east swell will gradually decline and shift to a northeast direction from Friday into this weekend. East Pacific Hurricane Olivia will likely produce a reinforcing east swell, which is expected to provide a boost in surf along east facing shores starting Sunday. Otherwise, small south and southwest swells will maintain small background surf along south facing shores this week.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
North East
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Surf: Waist to stomach high ENE wind swell for the morning going more E and building into the chest to shoulder range in the afternoon.
Conditions: Light sideshore texture in the morning with SSE winds 5-10mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the E. Glassy conditions are expected by late afternoon with ENE winds less than 5mph.
North West
ampm
Surf: Ankle to knee high SW ground swell.
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Conditions: Glassy in the early morning with SW winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.
West
ampm
Surf: Knee high S medium period swell with occasional thigh high sets.
Conditions: Glassy in the morning with NW winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting SSW 5-10mph.
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South East
ampm
Surf: Knee to waist high E wind swell for the morning with occasional stomach sets. This builds to waist to chest high for the afternoon.
Conditions: Fairly clean in the early morning with N winds 5-10mph. Sideshore texture/chop conditions move in during the morning hours with the winds shifting NE 10-15mph.
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
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