September 28, 2018 Surf ForecastSeptember 28, 2018, 5:00 AM HST (Updated September 28, 2018, 5:00 AM)
Outlook through Friday October 05: Rough surf along east facing shores will gradually increase this weekend as the trade winds strengthen. Surf will rise along north facing shores today and peak on Friday night out of the north- northwest direction. This swell is expected hold through Saturday and taper off Sunday into early next week. A larger reinforcement out of the northwest is expected to fill in Monday night. A small southwest swell will produce a small boost in surf heights along south facing shores from Friday into early next week. A slightly larger reinforcing south-southwest swell is expected to fill in next Tuesday.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
Surf: Waist to stomach high medium period swell with occasional chest sets. The swell will be coming from the ESE in the morning and shift to the NNW during the day.
Conditions: Sideshore texture/chop with SSE winds 10-15mph in the morning shifting ESE 5-10mph in the afternoon.
Surf: Knee high SW medium period swell with occasional thigh high sets.
Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with NE winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting NW 5-10mph.
Surf: Knee to waist high SW ground swell with occasional stomach high sets.
Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with N winds 5-10mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the WNW. Glassy conditions are expected for the late day with W winds less than 5mph.
Surf: Waist to stomach high SSW wind swell for the morning going more ESE during the day.
Conditions: Semi glassy/semi bumpy in the morning with ENE winds less than 5mph. Bumpy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting E 5-10mph.
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**