Outlook through Friday January 19: An extremely large long-period swell will start building tonight and peak Saturday evening. This swell will bring well above warning level surf to north and west facing shores through weekend and possibly into Monday. As the swell subsides next week, surf for north and west facing shores should still stay at advisory levels through midweek. A reinforcing northwest swell is then forecast to arrive Wednesday night. Moderate to locally breezy trade winds will start to make a comeback Monday, and strengthen through the week. This will translate to surf along east facing shores becoming larger and rougher next week. Advisory level surf for east facing shores is possible by the second half of the week. No significant surf is expected along south facing shores, although wrap from the extra large northwest swell may produce locally higher sets in some spots.
Surf heights are forecast heights of the face, or front, of waves. The surf forecast is based on the significant wave height, the average height of the one third largest waves, at the locations of the largest breakers. Some waves may be more than twice as high as the significant wave height. Expect to encounter rip currents in or near any surf zone.
North East
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ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW AD
Surf: Head high NNW ground swell for the morning with occasional 1-3′ overhead sets. This builds to triple overhead high for the afternoon.
Conditions: Semi choppy in the morning with NNW winds 10-15mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting NE 5-10mph.
North West
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Surf: Knee to waist high WNW ground swell for the morning. The swell shifts more NW and builds for the afternoon with sets up to chest high.
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Conditions: Semi choppy with NNE winds 5-10mph in the morning shifting NW for the afternoon.
West
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Surf: Waist to chest high WNW ground swell for the morning with occasional shoulder sets. This rotates more NW and builds in the afternoon with sets up to 1-2′ overhead high.
Conditions: Semi glassy in the morning with N winds less than 5mph. Semi glassy/semi bumpy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting W 5-10mph.
ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW AD
South East
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Surf: Waist to stomach high ESE wind swell.
Conditions: Fairly clean in the morning with N winds 5-10mph. Semi choppy conditions for the afternoon with the winds shifting to the ENE.
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
Image: NOAA
**Click directly on the images below to make them larger. Charts include: Hawaii County projected winds, tides, swell direction & period and expected wave heights.**
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HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH AND WEST FACING SHORES
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